Marques is part of what one might dub the “second wave” of winemakers pursuing a similar path by looking to higher elevation plots and picking earlier to preserve acidity. At her Conceito estate, in the Douro Superior heading east towards Spain, she produces a range of wines from the accessible Contraste blends (the red and the white are both picked early and only partially oaked, to maintain freshness) to Unico, a thrilling old-vine white field blend. But the bastardo grape has arguably become her calling card—not only for its stylistic grace, but for its clear challenge to the prevailing Douro template, and endorsement of the region’s climatic variety.
PUNCH | Can Douro Wine Find a Lighter Way Forward?
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