Little wonder that in his keynote speech at the 2006 Craft Brewers Conference, Dogfish Head Craft Brewery founder Sam Calagione questioned a wine-centric definition of terroir. “If you can’t blind them with science, blind them with geography. Je parl francais en peu, and I’m pretty sure the translated definition of terroir is ‘dirt’,” he said. “The wine world has wrapped this one word with mighty voodoo powers and created a cult of exclusivity around it. Breweries have terroir as well. But instead of revolving around a patch of land, ours are centered on a group of people.”
The dirt on terroir | DRAFT Magazine
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